| Matt VanCampen ~ May 20, 2003 |
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Did you go? Fill me in. How was the snow? Avalanche conditions? How deep were the post holes? The weather was unbeatable but I have yet to hear if the climb went as planned. Hope all had a great time.
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| Cynde Stuart (Alt) ~ May 21, 2003 |
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I was orginally suppose to go with Mike Rudy on Sat night, weather was bad so the climb didn't happen. Steve had a spot so I joined his group last minute. Steve rolled with the punches when the Mazama Lodge would not allow him to cook us dinner. We tailgated in a parking lot (after being forced to move once) and had time to load up on the carbs and introduce ourselves. The lodge gave us a great opportunity to make decisions, assign rope teams, and distribute equipment. Most folks got some sleep and we were up and rolling at midnight. Starting out on the trail at 1:15 we found the snow hard and footing uneven due to the cat tracks. No wind and easy going up to the Silcox. Footing was better after our first break (steps most of the way) and the pace was slowed due to my ability. Originally we planned a stop midway up the Palmer. It was cold enough that we had to keep moving so the next stop was the top of the Palmer. After climbing out of the shelter of the Palmer lift building several people (including me) got real cold real fast! Extra gloves and chemical hand warmers were passed around and we continued as first light started to appear on the horizon. Steps were good up to Crater Rock and crampons were not required. Climb leaders decided that the rise to the base of the Hogsback did not require crampons but that we needed or ice axes. At the Hogsback Steve had everyone rope up (three teams)and put on crampons. Since the snow was soft and deep some climbers were not roping. Steve made the decision that roping was a good safe procedure and everyone agreed. We summitted at approx 9:15AM to almost totally clear skies! The wind wasn't too bad but cold enough to chase us off after about thirty minutes. All eleven of us made it with three first timers, myself, Bridgette, and John Carpenter. Since no climb (I understand) goes without some issues, here is the details: I wanted to bail at the Silcox but Brad encouraged me to keep going. Since he was the sweeper, he and I climbed together in the rear (thanks Brad). Keith Hill and John Pierce were my rope team partners and shared carrying the rope so I would not be burdened with the weight (big thanks guys!) When we regrouped at Crater Rock Sue Nelson was feeling sick and I prayed she would ask to go down so I could go with her, but she is one tough cookie and went on (with a very heavy pack that she was training with). Cindi Ewert voluteered to carry a rope from Crater to the Hogs (another tough lady) which slowed her pace which enabled me to keep up. One look at the Hogsback and I just about fainted. I was so releived to find out that we could leave our packs for the final push. With John P. and Keith's encouragement I practically crawled through the Pearly Gates. John P. told me I would never forget this moment . . . I tear up as I write this. Thanks again. The trip down was tough due to the soft snow. We were posting and slipping all the way to Crater and glisading wasn't working for everyone. An old back injury of mine became very aggravated making carrying my pack painful. Steve escorted me to the top of the Palmer, Sue climbed up to take my pack (thanks Sue), and Steve negotiated a ride down the lifts for me (I didn't even argue). Ski Patrol required a pile of paperwork to be filled out since I had to be an "injured" climber to ride down. Most of the group made it to the truck before I did. What impressed me the most was that we functioned as a team. Even though I was the slowest I was still able to contribute by having the hand warmers and lending Cindi an adjustable pole when she needed it. The stronger climbers laid out the ropes and coiled them at the end. Everyone assisted in getting packs on, buckling helmets, and putting on crampons. Food was shared along with clothing. We started out with eleven and finished with eleven. That's a great climb! Cynde |
| Steve Dougherty ~ May 25, 2003 |
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The eleven-member climb team rendezvoused at the Mazama Lodge, near Government Camp, where we dropped our gear in the basement before having a tailgate spaghetti dinner across the highway in the road maintenance parking lot. This was not the original plan, but group members adapted as necessary. The group returned to the lodge after dinner to prepare packs and gear for the climb. Team members enjoyed being the only occupants in the lodge and spread out among the three dormitories for a few hours of rest. At midnight, team members were up and moving. We were in the cars and driving to Timberline shortly after 12:30 a.m. The climb began promptly on schedule at 1:15 a.m. Climbers walked in the groomed climbing trail to avoid postholing in the recent snowfall. We gained the Silcox Hut in less than one hour. The night was clear and the air was cold. A steady breeze made for some cold hands and feet as well as considerable amounts of ice forming in water bottles. Cynde Alt provided some chemical foot and hand warmers to those with cold hands providing them some sensational relief. All felt the steepness of the slope as we rounded Crater Rock on the way to the Hogs back. This is the most difficult rope carry. In the future, I would like to see the strongest team members hauling ropes in this section. Team members roped up and put on their crampons even though the snow was not icy or the temperatures warm. Crossing the bergshrund was not a problem as the boot track went straight up the slope just west of its opening. The summit was clear and visibility was outstanding. We could see Rainier to the north and Diamond Peak to the south. It was cold on the summit. Team members started back down in reverse order following a couple group photos. Plunge stepping in the fresh snow provided good footing for the descending climbers. The ropes were coiled and crampons removed before departing the Hogs Back. Climbers regrouped just below Crater Rock and then again at the top of the Palmer Chair Lift. The group enjoyed a short tailgate lunch of sandwiches, crackers and soda before returning to Mazama Lodge to shower, change clothes, distribute summit certificates and debrief. Summiting climbers were Leader Steve Dougherty, Assistant Brad Tedrow, Chase Tedrow, John Carpenter, Bridgett Harmon, Chuck Messer, Cindi Ewert, Keith Hill, John Petrie, Sue Nelson, and Cynde Alt. |