| Steve Dougherty ~ Jul 24, 2005 |
| The Sunday climb team joined the Saturday climb team for a pre-climb dinner of spagehtti, steamed vegetables, salad, bread and cake, prepared by the leader's wife Shelley, at Big Meadows Horse Camp, just 13 miles short of Santiam Pass. The group enjoyed hearing stories of the day's events from the first climb team and then focussed on reviewing plans for their own climb. By 9 p.m. the climbers drove to the Santiam Pass trailhead to camp for the night. The climb team woke at 4:30 a.m. and set about the task of breaking camp. Assistant Cindi Alt transported Steve and the "tailgate breakfast" to the pass arriving at 5 a.m. The breakfast included oatmeal and a variety of toppings, yogurt, bananas, muffins, coffee, hot chocolate and tea. The gear was divied up and the group set out at 5:40 a.m. The climb team made steady progress on their approach hike and was only delayed briefly while Cynde applied moleskin to the heels of Laura Coyier. Two climbers passed the climb team during a planned rest break. This turned out to be a non-event since they did not delay our group's progress at all. The day was breezy and cool with clear skies. We enjoyed protection from the wind when ascending the west side of the South Ridge. Steve cautioned the group as to the danger of rock fall as the team made their way up the South Ridge. Laura's pace slowed and she demonstrated concern over the steepness of the terrain and the rockfall hazard. Laura was assisted around the first obstacle by removing her pack. Climbers donned their climb harnesses in the staging area as Cindi Alt belayed Steve across the crawl. Cynde suggested starting the fixed line in the staging area so as to protect the somewhat exposed scrambling between the staging area and the crawl. This turned out to be a wise choice and Steve plans to continue this practice in the future. The eight-foot step was climbed unroped but spotted from below by Steve before the climb team took their last steps to the base of the summit pinacle where the team of two were completing their climb of the pinacle. Cindi Alt belayed Steve up the first pitch where he only needed to girth hitch a single rock horn on the face about 12 feet up, before proceeding to the rapel anchor. Cynde fixed the bottom of the first fixed line and joined Steve at the top of the first pitch. Cynde took a position at the "summit window" where she was anchored by a 20 foot sling that was girth hitched around a chock stone above the window, and belayed Steve as he rounded the corner and ascended the final section of the pinacle. Steve placed a carabiner on the "corner" to keep the rope up at waist high and reduce rope friction as it went around the corner, but chose not to place any protection until the reaching the east end of the cock's comb on the summit where a rock horn was used and the sling was draped over the north side to support the rope. The rope was anchored on the west end of the cock's comb with a cordelette and three large loops of rope draped over the knobby surface of the rock in opposition to one another. Laura who seemed unsure of herself on the unroped terrain demonstrated confidence and vigor when attached to the fixed line. Climbers summitted in two groups. The first group summitted and then descended all the way back down in reverse order before the second group started up. Climbers down climbed the second pitch and then rapelled a single line to the bottom of the summit pinacle. Cynde belayed Steve back to the rapel station. The rapel was rigged and Cynde and Steve rapelled the final pitch. A short rope of 50' was tied around the rock horn above the eight-foot step and climbers rapelled this short pitch using a Muunter Hitch. This was done to expand their climbing skills and will be continued in the future. The inexperience of the group contributed to falling 90 minutes behind the planned schedule but nearly 30 minutes was regained in the race for the trail head. Ken Crouteau, an accomplished master's marathon runner requested permission to beat feet to the trailhead. Steve challenged him with besting the record established on yesterday's climb of 66 minutes by Scott Kelley. Ken replied confidently, "That should be no problem, 60 minutes is only 12 minutes a mile." Ken ran the five miles with a pack in 53 minutes! Steve, Cynde and John Coyier swept the return route arriving back at the trailhead after 7 p.m. Climbers regrouped at Big Meadows Horse Camp for the awarding of summit certificates and another meal identical to the evening before. Participants were Steve Dougherty (leader), Cynde Alt (assistant), Markian Haryluk, Ken Croteau, Mary Wood, Ed Gilman, John Coyier and Laura Coyier. |
| Ken Croteau ~ Aug 12, 2005 |
| I have climbed most of the cascade peaks over a 25 plus year period. None woke up my sense of fear like this one. And when the fatal accident occurred just one week later, it was clear that many dangers exist on this peak. Our leaders Steve and Cynde did an outstanding job leading our group to the summit and back. I wasn't the only one with nerves going on and it was a first summit for two on our team. What a way to launch into mountaineering! Anyway, it was just a fantastic trip and our climb leaders need to be commended for their patience, encouragement, and above all safety offerred to the team. Oh and let's not forget Steve's wife for turning out those great meals for everyone back in camp. K Croteau |