Jun 26-27, 2010 -- Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier
Bryon Snapp ~ Jul 9, 2010
On Saturday, June 26th, seven Chemeketan's left the Salem Motor Pool. We stopped by Steve Dougherty's rustic little cabin to pick Him and his family up so we could travel together and meet our 12th team member from Seattle at the Pole Creek Trail head by our designated start time of 12:00-noon.

The weather was crystal clear and just a tad bit warm for our hike to base camp at 6,600 feet. The trail was even dry until the climber's trail where it quickly became 100% covered in snow. We made our camp by 5:00 p.m. and had a pleasant evening with a nice sunset and a full moon. We were even lucky enough to get running water nearby once we dug a hole though the snow to the creek below. I spent about 45 minutes refreshing members on the basics of roped snow travel, crampons, etc. as this climb was the first for a few since becoming 2010 Climb School Graduates.

Other than a medical emergency at midnight, we all got a few hours of sleep and woke at 4:00am so we could leave camp for the summit by 5:00am. As this was a first climb for many, I was very pleased that we were able to leave camp at 5:15, not bad!

We headed due West toward the Hayden Glacier and put on crampons after just 40 minutes after leaving camp. We continued unroped up the snow slopes slowly gaining elevation. Just before stepping onto the Hayden Glacier, Brad Dougherty was forced to return to camp due to badly blistered feet. A wise move as we all had soaked feet by the time we returned to camp. With a slow but steady pace, we made it to the windy saddle between Middle Sister and North Sister. As everyone grabbed a bite and prepared for the summit push, I headed up and prepared a 60-meter fixed line up 45 degree slope that everyone accended and decended utilizing a sliding prusik for protection. The snow was quite firm but we had great steps as a group of Mazamas had gone before our group. One by one each member made the passage up the fixed line and then worked their way to the sumit. At 11:15am, all eleven of us stood on the top and took in the wonderful views that stretched from Shasta in the South to Adams in the North.

We quickly and efficiently descended the fixed lines and retured to camp. Eight of us broke down camp and left for the trailhead while Steve Dougherty, his wife Shelley, son Brad and Brad's girlfriend Courtney stayed at basecamp to enjoy another evening and then hike out the next day.

As we were breaking down camp at 3:00pm, a large section of the super steep, sun drenched East face of Middle Sister exploded with the sound of a shotgun blast and descended in a masive avalanche. The jet plane like rumble of the avalanche continued for nearly two minutes! This was by far the largest avalanche I have witnessed in Oregon.

This was a great climb with a great group of people. Team members were: Bryon Snapp (Provisonal Leader), David Braun (Assistant), Steve Dougherty (Leader Assist), Shelley Dougherty, Beth Dougherty, Brad Dougherty, Courtney Carlson, Rick Roemer, Nat Lichten, Ryan Orr, Scott Loveless and Jonathon Myers.

Rick Roemer ~ Jul 27, 2010
This was a good first climb, and an opportunity to hike with some really great people and leadership. I would consider the climb moderate. The view from the Summit was awesome.


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