We planned this to be a two day climb. On the first day, we would climb to a flat area known as Helen Lake (10400') and make our high camp. On the second day we would get an "Alpine Start" summiting at 9 a.m. before returning to our high camp and returning to the Bunny Flat Trailhead.

We could not have asked for better weather. The forecast called for partly cloudy skies with no chance of rain and calm to minimal wind. Our climb team was strong and well prepared. All had demonstrated their readiness on previous climbs or on the leader's Mary's Peak Mountain Fitness Hike. Two in our group, Fernando Benitez and Drew Huebsch, would be summiting their first Chemeketan Award Peak. We also had some experienced climbers. Mason Smith would be serving as the assistant leader. Chemeketan climb leader, Mike Rudy, was using this climb as preparation for a high altitude Mexico climb in December. Eighteen Peak Award winners Cathy Lazurus and Stephen Rockford, had climbed Mt. Shasta previously but by a different route. Climb leader, Steve Dougherty, had done the route once before, about 12 years ago.

We left the parking lot moderately loaded since we were not carrying ropes, harnesses or pickets. However, we were carrying crampons, ice axe and high camp gear. The trail to "Horse Camp" (7950') was nearly completely snow free and took just an hour. The Sierra Club maintains a stone cabin here and a generous, cold, splashing spring allows climbers to rehydrate and fill water bottles for the climb to Helen Lake.

Above Horse Camp we walked entirely on snow applying sun screen generously because we would be in full sun at altitude for two days. About a third the way to Helen Lake Fernando took off his REI rented plastic boots to uncover quarter sized blisters on the inside of each heel. We bandaged each with a Dr. Scholl's Blister Bandage. Fernando never complained again during the remainder of the climb. The blister bandages either worked a miracle or Fernando is just one tough dude. I don't think he will be renting boots from REI again.

When we arrived at Helen Lake several climbers were heading out and we set up our tents in the vacated snow platforms. I estimate that there were 20-30 tents in the area. We made camp, melted snow and rested. Forest, the climbing ranger, stopped by and briefed us on litter, the urination location, and the preferred route through the "Red Banks". We chose a 4 am. departure hoping that it would be late enough to insure soft snow for the 2000 foot glissade from the Red Banks to Helen Lake.

The night was calm and moonless. Some of our group had trouble sleeping. One reported that he had not slept at all and felt it best that he not continue higher as he was not feeling well.

When we started out at 4 am. there was already a long line of climber headlamps decorating the route above us. We angled up the moderately steep slope searching in vain for a boot track. It seemed every party above us was finding their own way, so we kicked our own steps.

Helmets were used early to protect against the possibility of ice fall from above. As dawn arrived and we got onto steeper terrain we witnessed small chunks of ice speeding down the slope. At one point we found it necessary to coach the climbers above us to relay the verbal warning "ice!" to climbers below.

While resting, shortly after daybreak, we learned that we had a new party member, "Peter", a high school junior, had been left by his three friends, so we absorbed him into our party.

The main chute, through the Red Banks, had snow its entire length (50-100m). The slope was moderately steep ( we were told 35 degrees) and challenging for new climbers. We utilized a "low dagger" technique since the snow was too hard and shallow to accept the length of an ice axe shaft.

The slope angle moderated above the Red Banks. Here we stopped to rest and regroup. The sun could be seen on the ridge above us and we were still in the cold mountain shadow. Mason led the group to the sunny ridge above, where we could rest more comfortably, while Steve brought up the rear to get in tune with party member condition.

The wind was blowing hard at our new resting spot and we longed for the relative calm we had enjoyed in the mountain's shadow. We put on all of our gear to battle what had to be the coldest spot on the mountain. The only relief from the wind was found by lining up members of our own party to serve as a wind break. Mike Pennington found himself in the center of a "group hug". One of our party needed an emotional boost, so we surrounded him and consumed him with our group hug. It gave us all a morale boost.

Mason led out while Steve brought up the rear as we toiled up the infamous Misery Hill. Peter had stopped short of the top to rewarm his hands. Steve put an extra pair of gloves on him and got him moving again. Just short of the top, a young woman also complained of cold hands. Steve got her hands warmed up and her moving again as well. Within 40 yards of her location we topped out and the wind died. It was remarkable how much warmer it was, once we were out of the wind.

With the summit in site, just a short distance away, we strolled to the summit and positioned ourselves in the queue for summit photos.

After our celebration on the summit and singing Happy Birthday to Michael Gurley, Mason led us back down. Going down through the Main Chute of the Red Banks was the most challenging part of our climb, since we were down climbing the steepest snow on the route. This also contributed to some congestion. Below the Red Banks we positioned ourselves out of the area most prone to falling ice or rocks to prepare for the glissade.

The snow had softened some for our glissade, but was still quite challenging due to the steepness of the slope. In less than an hour we were back at Helen Lake.

We were packed in a little more than one hour and headed for Horse Camp. Additional glissading opportunities eased the work of descending. We regrouped momentarily at Horse Camp to drink before completing the final 1.7 miles to the Bunny Flat Trailhead.

We enjoyed our post climb meal at Lalos Mexican Restaurant in Shasta City, distributed summit certificates, and shared our reflections on the climb before the five hour drive back to Salem.

Climb participants were: Cathy Lazarus, Stephen Rockford, Mike Pennington, Michael Gurley, Mike Rudy, Drew Huebsch, Justin Clarke, Dmitry Zaichenko, Flernando Benitez, Mark Olson, Mason Smith (assistant), and Steve Dougherty (leader).