Sep 8-10, 2001 -- Mt. Jefferson via the South Ridge Route
Steve Dougherty ~ Sep 25, 2001
Ten climbers met at the State Motor Pool and car pooled to the Pamelia Lake Trailhead. Paul Clinton and Ken Croteau drove from Portland and joined the group at Shale Lake Friday evening. The group enjoyed pleasant weather and great views of Mt Jefferson as they knocked out the seven mile/2500’ approach to Shale Lake. The remainder of the afternoon was spent filtering water, pitching tents and resting. Everyone retired to their tents early in preparation for the 2:30 a.m. wake up. During the night the wind began to blow. The force of the wind seemed to be screaming across the sky at tree top level flapping the tents surprisingly little. The wind kept most of us company through the night and many complained of little sleep as we woke to a sky filled with stars and wind. The half moon shone brightly as we pieced together segments of climber trails to the tree line. Once on the South Ridge we found significant shelter from the wind on the west side of the ridge. The last 500 feet to the Red Saddle was mostly loose scree challenging our tiring legs. We arrived at the Red Saddle about 9:30 a.m. slightly ahead of schedule thanks to the strong climbing group. Leader Steve Dougherty and assistant Jim Rudy set about fixing a line across a 150’remnant of the snow traverse(52 degree slope according to Jim’s clinometer). Three pickets were used as intermediate protection. A large sling was used to tie into a large rock on the shoulder of the traverse. Jim Rudy placed clove hitches at each picket. Climbers used two carabiners and a long prussick to negotiate the fixed line. We were well protected from the wind. It took an hour to get all 12 across the traverse. Most had never been on snow that steep. The snow was firm and in good condition, giving good footing with crampons. The snow was completely gone on the north side of the “shoulder”. Climbers scrambled up the blocky pinnacle following a leader who had summitted the route twice before. All crowded amongst each other in the small summit area signing the Mazama register and doing their best to get summit photos. The wind had calmed and made for a comfortable experience with tremendous views. The group cautiously scrambled back down to the traverse. The snow had softened some, but still provided adequate footing with crampons. It took a full four hours to go from the Red Saddle to the summit and back. Climbers were sent down the South Ridge in groups of four to minimize the rock fall hazard. The running water coming out of snow fields further down the mountain was refreshing. The group arrived back at Shale Lake at 5:50 p.m. only 20 minutes behind schedule. The ranger had visited our camp and had left a note indicating that a few members of our party (you know who you are) had placed their tents on vegetation and threatened to return to insure that the tents were moved. Party members slept well Saturday night. The hike to the trailhead was uneventful. Thanks to JP for hauling out the Golden Trash award. The group convened at The Cedars restaurant in Detroit for lunch and the awarding of summit certificates. Climbers were JP Petrin, Roland Mack, Sue Nelson, Brad Dougherty, Brad Tedrow, Kevin McBee, Paul Clinton, Ken Croteau, Vaqas Malik, assistant Debra Marsh, assistant Jim Rudy and leader Steve Dougherty.


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