This description was taken from Oregon High: A Climbing Guide by Jeff Thomas
Start on the east side of Timberline Lodge. Do not follow the groomed ski trails; instead stay east in the trees and hike one mile to Silcox Warming Hut (approx. 7,000 feet). Continue another mile to the end of the Palmer ski lift (approx. 8,600 feet). From the end of the ski lift, climb toward the right or east side of Crater Rock, then continue around and up the east side of the rock to the Hogback (aprox. 10,600 feet), a high ridge of snow extending from the north side of Crater Rock toward the summit. Follow the Hogback to a large bergschrund. Cross or go around the bergschrund, depending on conditions. Enter a gully, commonly called the Chute, which leads through several rock towers (The Pearly Gates) to the summit ridge. Time from Timberline Lodge, 6-10 hours. |